You’re absolutely right about the regional difference. Upstate New York’s cooler, shorter growing season naturally gives Chardonnay higher acidity and leaner fruit character — great for crisp, mineral-driven wines, but a challenge when you’re aiming for that plush, creamy texture we often associate with California’s warmer-climate Chardonnays.
The good news is that lees contact and stirring can bring some of that roundness and richness to your wine, even in a cooler climate.
To start, think about building the foundation in the vineyard and crush pad before you even reach the lees stage. For a fuller-bodied Chardonnay, you’ll want the fruit quite ripe — at least 24 °Brix if you can get there. That might mean a late pick, or a carefully chosen warm site with good sun exposure. If, at that sugar level, the acidity is still sharp (which is likely in your area), consider a small deacidification step to bring the pH up into the 3.4–3.6 range. That’s a sweet spot where malolactic fermentation and lees aging will have the most integrated, creamy effect. Too low a pH, and the ML bacteria can’t work optimally, and the finished wine may stay tight and angular no matter what you do later on.
Next comes the fermentation itself. Don’t ferment too cold; a temperature of about 65 °F (18 °C) will encourage a more complex mouthfeel and better integration with oak. At the same time, it’s warm enough for yeast to produce those lovely “bready” and toasty notes that later play beautifully with lees character. If you have a neutral barrel available, that’s ideal — it allows oxygen exchange and gives you the gentle micro-oxidation that helps knit flavors together without overpowering oakiness. If a barrel isn’t in the cards, try fermenting on one to two grams per liter of the highest-quality French oak chips you can find. These will add subtle vanillin and texture, but go easy; with oak chips, less is definitely more.
Once primary fermentation is complete, you’ll be staring at a layer of sediment at the bottom of your vessel. This is where the magic (and the potential for mistakes) begins. Not all lees are created equal. The heaviest, coarsest material — the thick, clay-like layer sometimes called “peanut butter lees” by winemakers — is mostly dead yeast and grape solids that can contribute bitterness or off-flavors if left too long. The lighter, creamy lees above that layer are the ones you want to keep. They contain yeast cell walls that, as they break down over time, release polysaccharides and mannoproteins. These molecules naturally add body, roundness, and a sense of sweetness on the palate, even though they don’t contain sugar.
When racking after fermentation, use the old cellar saying, “If it flows, it goes.” In other words, rack off the thick sludge, but don’t be afraid to take the medium and light lees with you. Those are the beneficial ones.
If you’re planning to put the wine through malolactic fermentation, which I’d highly recommend for a rounder, creamier style, this is the perfect time to begin stirring. Regular agitation of the lees during MLF keeps them in suspension and helps integrate the buttery diacetyl character more smoothly into the wine. Just be sure to protect your headspace from oxygen — keep your barrels or carboys topped and avoid vigorous splashing. A stainless-steel stirring wand or barrel lees-stirring rod is ideal, as it lets you move the lees gently without aerating too much. Stir once a week or so during MLF, tapering off as it finishes.
After malolactic fermentation is complete, continue to age the wine on its fine lees for several months. If it’s in barrel, stir every few weeks; if it’s in a stainless or glass vessel with oak chips (start with 0.5 g/L for a month, taste before you add more), treat it the same way. Each stirring brings the lees back into contact with the wine, encouraging autolysis — the slow breakdown of yeast cells that deepens texture and adds those toasty, nutty nuances. You’ll notice over time that the wine gains a broader mid-palate and a smoother, silkier feel.
You’ll know your lees program is working when the wine’s edges begin to soften, the mid-palate fills out, and those once-separate flavors of oak, fruit, and acidity start to become more cohesive. Over time, you will develop a feel for how much stirring your wine needs — more for young, tight lots, and less once the wine feels settled and complete.
Even though your climate is cooler than California’s, careful lees management can help you achieve that supple, integrated style. Between ripeness, a balanced pH, moderate fermentation temperature, and consistent stirring, you’ll be surprised how rich and layered your New York Chardonnay can become.
